Banarasi Silk Sarees are from Varanasi in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. Older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, the ancient city of Banaras is synonymous with some of the world’s oldest temples and finest Banarasi Sarees. The place that is believed to have flourished as a textile centre when it was a capital of Kasi kingdom, In 5th and 6th century BC Banaras became a crucial centre for silk and cotton fabrics with these woven fabrics becoming most sought after all over the world. Zari and Brocade work that is the speciality of Banarasi sarees kick-started around the 17th century when Silk weavers from Gujarat migrated to Kasi after a famine in 1603. Development of brocade and zari work in the city saw new heights during the Mughal period, especially in the reign of emperors such as Akbar. Having witnessed centuries of handmade textile tradition, Banarasi silk sarees have seen many changes in preferences of colours, patterns, motifs, borders and styles over the years. From floral patterns, animal and bird depictions to ‘Butidar’ designs to Islamic patterns like florals and ‘Jali’ or ‘Jaal’ and the more recent Geometrical patterns Banarasi sarees collections have kept abreast with changing tastes and embolden women with their ever elegant finesse.
Banarasi brocade sarees are from the city of Banaras that has been at the banks of River Ganga for eons of years and is witness to centuries of handmade textile tradition ensuring its charm never faded in so many years! Like old wine in new bottle, the real Zari and Brocade sarees that are a speciality of the city have reinvented themselves with every era without losing out on their original charm. A leaf from the golden book of its flowering history is the real zari Banarasi Brocade Sarees. A speciality of Banarasi silk sarees, brocade is a characteristic weave in which patterns are created by thrusting the Zari threads made out of real gold in earlier times but now days made in actual silver, between warp at calculated intervals so as to evolve the design called butis line by line. A type of loom called Drawloom or ‘Jalla’ was used to weave brocade sarees which with the advancement of technology are now woven on Jacquard looms that allow pre-planning of the entire design and executed mechanically by hand with great precision From a city that’s as old as time with an equally old weaving tradition, Banarasi real zari silk brocade sarees are so deeply embedded in the cultural roots of the Indian tradition that every Indian woman’s conscience seeks for it on the most important occasions of her life.
Imagine walking into a store and watching a craftsman work with gleaming gold threads, as he peers over a rickety handloom, using techniques that are almost as old as time itself. Each of these Banarasi sarees, he says, takes him anywhere from two weeks to six months to complete. The know-how has been passed down to him from his forefathers. It is one that he learned simply by watching his family when he was just a boy. In the 21st century, this scene may seem like it belongs to a black-and-white reel played in a museum. But this ancient craft of weaving Banarasi silk sarees can still be glimpsed in Varanasi.
Origin and history
Historians have been able to trace silk work to Vedic times. Hiranya – literally translated as cloth made from gold – finds mention in the revered Rig Vedas as the attire of the Gods. And some scholars believe that this description comes close to the embellished zari work, synonymous with Banarasi silk sarees. The timeless Jataka Tales and Pali texts support the evidence of a bustling cloth trade on the banks of the holy Ganga, in Kashi.
Historians have been able to trace silk work to Vedic times. Hiranya – literally translated as cloth made from gold – finds mention in the revered Rig Vedas as the attire of the Gods. And some scholars believe that this description comes close to the embellished zari work, synonymous with Banarasi silk sarees. The timeless Jataka Tales and Pali texts support the evidence of a bustling cloth trade on the banks of the holy Ganga, in Kashi.
There’s no debating the fact that Banaras has been an important centre for weaving since time immemorial. But it was Mughal Emperor Akbar who gave the weaving industry, here and across India, a shot in the arm. The emperor who was known for his love of the finer things in life – Persian wine, his gem-crusted sword with crusted elephants, his sarpech (turban ornament) which consisted of large emeralds in elaborate floral motifs, and more – also loved zari work (embroidery in pure gold). He had many of his wives and those from his harem wrapped in rich silk sarees with zari work. And this is what we today popularly refer to as Banarasi silk, while also adding silver threadwork to the mix.
Emperor Akbar so loved the silk work that he didn’t limit its use to clothing and even had his palace draped in it – carpets and wall hangings made from Banarasi silk. Little wonder that centuries later, the British colonizers too were baffled by this intricate handicraft. But it was post independence that several small-scale industries grew in the region and Banarasi silk became much sought after.
Weaving process
Zari threads are made with flattened thin metallic strips drawn from gold alloys. These delicate strips are then wound around silk yarns. The threads are then flattened using machines. Often they are passed through a brightener to increase their sheen.
Zari threads are made with flattened thin metallic strips drawn from gold alloys. These delicate strips are then wound around silk yarns. The threads are then flattened using machines. Often they are passed through a brightener to increase their sheen.
While motifs are crafted out of zari threads, the rest of the saree is usually made of silk that is dyed in a variety of colours. In recent years, natural dyes are gaining popularity due to concerns of the sacred Ganga being polluted from chemical dyes, as dye manufacturing units populate the area.
Given the effort, the sarees often come with a hefty price tag. And sarees produced on handlooms can take anywhere from 15 days to a month, and sometimes upto six months.
Today power looms are replacing the hand-loom and cutting down on labour and production time. But the final machine-made product is uniform and lacks the distinctiveness of the handmade saree.
Colours
Banarasi sarees are available in a host of colours and are known more for the gold and silver zari work that adorns them.
Banarasi sarees are available in a host of colours and are known more for the gold and silver zari work that adorns them.
Motifs
Back in the Mughal era, the designs on Banarasi sarees largely consisted of Islamic motifs such as floral patterns, stylised leaves, and the use of jali work (net), all of which can also be found also in their architecture. The Taj Mahal boasts of similar motifs in intricate inlay work crafted from and within the stone. The effect is simply stunning. The designs were an attempt to recreate the bounty of Jannat (paradise).
Back in the Mughal era, the designs on Banarasi sarees largely consisted of Islamic motifs such as floral patterns, stylised leaves, and the use of jali work (net), all of which can also be found also in their architecture. The Taj Mahal boasts of similar motifs in intricate inlay work crafted from and within the stone. The effect is simply stunning. The designs were an attempt to recreate the bounty of Jannat (paradise).
During the British era, the Victorians often demanded geometric patterns. Today, while Islamic motifs remain popular, one can find a variety of Hindu Gods embossed on to cushion covers, wall-hangings and even sarees.
Varieties
Banarasi sarees can be categorized into four distinct varieties, namely pure silk (katan), organza (kora) with zari and silk, georgette and shattir. Of these, the pure silk variety is the most renown. On the basis of design, Banarasi sarees are also classified into jangla, tanchoi, vaskat, cutwork, tissue and butidar.
Banarasi sarees can be categorized into four distinct varieties, namely pure silk (katan), organza (kora) with zari and silk, georgette and shattir. Of these, the pure silk variety is the most renown. On the basis of design, Banarasi sarees are also classified into jangla, tanchoi, vaskat, cutwork, tissue and butidar.
Shop different varieties of Banaras sarees.
Current state of the art
The trade that has survived centuries is under threat with inexpensive fakes flooding the markets. Sadly, many craftsmen have been forced to switch careers. An authentic Banarasi silk saree takes time and effort to create and comes with a hefty price tag. Customers are often unwilling to pay the price of the labour and willingly opt for fakes.
The trade that has survived centuries is under threat with inexpensive fakes flooding the markets. Sadly, many craftsmen have been forced to switch careers. An authentic Banarasi silk saree takes time and effort to create and comes with a hefty price tag. Customers are often unwilling to pay the price of the labour and willingly opt for fakes.
By respecting the craftsman and paying a fair price, we may be able to preserve this chapter of our history.
On the bright side, Banarasi sarees now have the GI (Geographical Indication) certification for Banaras Brocades and Sarees.
How to identify a Banarasi silk saree
- With the increase in prices of gold and silver, copper alloys are used to create zari threads. These threads are then plated in silver or gold. But the trained eye can immediately spot the difference. Check fake against the real deal and while the former has more glitter, the garishness takes away from the regal air.
- An easy way to spot a fake is to look for heavy thread work on the reverse side of the saree. But while these are indicators, they can often be manipulated by the crafty salesman.
- To absolutely ensure that you aren’t being scammed, look for the GI (Geographical Indication) tag. This government marker protects customers and craftsmen.
Care guide
It is recommended that you dry clean Banarasi sarees. Do not use detergent in the first few washes and clothes brush is an absolute no-no. You can either wrap the saree in muslin cloth and store it away from sunlight or store it in a hanging position in your cupboard. Either way, you must change the folds every now and then.
It is recommended that you dry clean Banarasi sarees. Do not use detergent in the first few washes and clothes brush is an absolute no-no. You can either wrap the saree in muslin cloth and store it away from sunlight or store it in a hanging position in your cupboard. Either way, you must change the folds every now and then.
The fabrics (Sarees) are classified based on varieties are;
Katan-Pure silk sarees that are created with beautiful patterns and are produced using hand looms (ancient times), now Powerloom and rapier looms are used.
Organza with Zari and Silk-Brocades are kind of fabrics that need thrusting the pattern thread between the warp. i.e., Weaving of fabric needs warp and weft. Weft thread passes over/under the warp regularly. But, in brocade, depending on design of the fabric to be woven, in place of regular weft passing warp, certain numbers of gold/silver/cotton weft threads are used. The designs may be regular/irregular based on which end appearance of fabrics varies. Actually silver threads are polished with gold, and these are wound so closely around a silk thread to Zari brocade. If only gold/silver threads are used, the fabric weigh becomes heavy that cannot be used for sarees instead they are used for hanging and furnishing.
Georgette is fine, lightweight, open texture fabric usually in a plain weave, that is made from crepe yarns (highly twisted) usually two S twisted and Z twisted yarns in both warp and weft.
Shattir is used in creating exclusive and modernized Banaras sarees.
Based on design, the fabrics are classified as (some of them are discussed):
Jangla: In this type of Sarees colorful silk threads are used. It has Jangala intricate patterns adds value in design. Jangala vegetation motif, that scrolls and spread in sarees is expected to be first in Banaras brocades. Rose Saree consists of embellished gold creepers and silver flowers of Jangala motif gives stylish look.
Where to shop for good Banarasi sarees: I have already mentioned the list here earlier. Te saree below was bought from SND (Shah Narayan Das). They have a retail outlet in Delhi by the name of Ekaya.
Where to shop for good Banarasi sarees: I have already mentioned the list here earlier. Te saree below was bought from SND (Shah Narayan Das). They have a retail outlet in Delhi by the name of Ekaya.
| KNOW YOUR CRAFT: BANARASI SILK | |||
| Technique | Handloom | Distinguishing factor | Islamic motifs such as floral patterns, leaves, and jali work; GI tag |
| Place of origin | Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh | Materials used | Resham thread (silk yarn) as well as gold and silver zari |
| Manufacturing hubs | Varanasi, Mirzapur, Chandauli, Bhadohi, Jaunpur and Azamgarh districts of Uttar Pradesh | Time taken to weave | 15 days to 6 months |
| Type of fabric | Silk | Varieties | Design wise: jangla, tanchoi, vaskat, cutwork, tissue and butidar |
| Colours | Available in vibrant colours with gold and silver zari work | Price | A Banarasi silk saree with decent amount of work starts at Rs.8000 and can go up to 2,00,000/- |
| Motifs | Mainly Islamic motifs such as floral patterns, stylised leaves, and the use of jali work | Care | Dry clean and store in a muslin cloth. Change folds from time to time |
nice write-up on banarasi silk sarees!
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